I probably don't need to do my bi-annual transition of seasonal clothing from closet A (day-to-day) to closet B (storage) for a little while yet...we were hit by 7 inches of snow yesterday so there's obviously still a requirement for cold weather clothing...BUT...I'm getting fed-up with facing the usual suspects every time I open my closet door and I'm having a hard time getting enthused about summer dressing...or figuring out what I actually need to add to my existing wardrobe to make the warmer months manageable...so a preemptive strike seems like a good idea.

As I find that my thinking is (marginally) clearer when I put pen to paper (or finger to keyboard as the case may be) my plan this year is to photograph segments of my wardrobe and then mull them over in a post or two, and hopefully identify the areas that are woefully inadequate or (more likely) the items that I have three or four of and really need to stop buying. I'm thinking of this as anti-retail therapy...but we'll see...I may find that I end up with a huge list of things that I quote/un-quote need.

Well, I think it's official...the "Great Summer Dress Hunt of 2008" is not going to be easy. As I was clicking around New York Magazine's website I came across this...

Yes, that's 117 dresses...none of which raised even a glimmer of interest...it almost makes me glad that it's still snowing and I can keep my winter wardrobe in rotation a few weeks longer...okay, maybe that's a little extreme but you get the gist.

The only downside to the plethora of street style blogs currently available is that you often come across a photograph and, like Veruca Salt, you simply want more...more detail...more angle...a different view. The outfit has so much detail and nuance that you want to immerse yourself in it. Case in point, this intriguing lady from Paris who I found on The Sartorialist. Someone who has veered away from the concept of "look in the mirror before you leave the house and remove one accessory" and, instead, has embraced excess and eclecticism...but not in a way that I, personally, think is overdone. She looks like she is expressing her true self...and appears supremely comfortable in what she has on...and, let's face it...looking comfortable in those Balenciaga "lego" shoes is quite a feat in itself. Luckily, in this instance, I got my "more"...courtesy of Café Mode...including the mirror-topped small bag which is merely a sliver of blue in the initial shot. This is my "more", my hidden detail...and something I'd love to get my sticky little hands on.

As you can tell from my "What made it out of my closet today?" pictures, I don't wear trousers terribly often...jeans, yes...but actual tailored pants, not so much. Part of this, I admit, is a preference for skirts...but there's also the issue of not being able to find a pair that fit correctly (at 5'11" there are limited trousers that go past my ankle...finding a pair that actually pool over my shoes is virtually unheard of). So when I see a picture of trousers done right, like this example from The Sartorialist, I have to pay homage...deeply envious homage...

Several years ago, in Selfridges sale, I bought a heavily reduced APC tunic top. The black and white geometric design was beautiful and, much as I hate to admit it, it seduced me into buying a top that really didn't really suit me. Okay, let's be honest...really, really didn't suit me. So you can imagine the mixed feelings when I saw J Crew's Tangier blouse. I love the fabric...it conjures up images of sightseeing in Marrakesh or strolling around the Alhambra palace in Spain...staring at the geometric delights of Moorish architecture.

Unfortunately the cut of the top makes me think of the stereotypical "barmaid blouse"...as seen in kitsch cartoons or worn by antique Toby jugs. In case I'm flailing away on my own with this reference point, the barmaid leans across the bar...arms folded...a scoopneck top framing acres of décolletage. Bawdy humor ensues. Great if that's your thing but definitely not for me. As the saying goes, "Those who do not learn from their mistakes, are doomed to repeat them..." I think, for once, I may actually have learned my lesson.

I've been severely underwhelmed with H&M as of late...it's seemed like anytime I went in I was surrounded by a sea of decidedly lackluster clothing...I know, I know, "it's H&M"...but it used to be the case that on every trip I found at least one item. In fact, I'd just about got to the stage where I was going to stop even going in. But, based on these pictures from their Spring collection, the tide has turned...farewell uninspired fire hazards designed by the color-blind...hello you chic, but funky, lady.

It's been a while since I've given myself a "fashion challenge"...mainly because I find it hard enough in the summer just existing without any added factors. Be that as it may, I decided to try a 3-day f.c. and, as I've been admiring women on The Sartorialist, and other sites, looking calm, cool, and collected in muted shades the challenge was this...three days...predominantly black and grey outfits...a completely different feel to each day's outfit.

The results? I was a little nervous that it might look like I was wearing a uniform ("Shades of the prison-house begin to close Upon the growing Boy" and all that jazz). Thankfully I didn't have that sensation and an added bonus was that I felt much more pulled together than I usually do. Another upside was that I unearthed the Margaret Howell pants...part of a suit that had got thrust to the back of the closet (suits, to me, are for interview purposes only)...but, on their own, a useful pair of lightweight summer trousers...score!



Day 1: Bubble dress with bow detail - COS, t-shirt - Gap, jacket - Martin Margiela, perforated flats - Jones the Bootmaker

Day 2: Linen shirt - Uniqlo, oversized wooden necklace - Nathalie Costes, suit pants - Margaret Howell, gladiator sandals - Tod's

Day 3: Dress with lace bands on skirt - Barneys own label, glitter flats - Me Too

As I've had enough of summer 07 at this point it's probably a little premature to be fantasizing about spring of 08 but...what's a girl to do? Especially when she comes across something as utterly perfect as Givenchy's pre-Spring/Summer 08 collection. I seem to be entering a neutral phase right now...casting covetous glances at blacks, whites, taupes, and tans...so this collection fits my mood to a tee.

Overall it strikes me as a kind of luxe APC...which is lucky as that means I have quite a few elements that I can use to pull together my own "knock-off" versions. A matching APC coat and skirt...a silk Max Studio top (which I bought because it was vaguely Sophia Kokosalaki and is now vaguely Givenchy)...and my new gladiator sandals ...will give me an outfit inspired by the first look above, without spending any cash. Now if only I could find a tiered skirt like outfit number 3...

Continuing on in a colorful vein...I'm considering some Jackson Pollock-esque DIY in an attempt to pay homage to these looks from the Yves Saint Laurent 07/08 Resort collection. Well, the bags and the dress at least...the pants leave me cold, though I love the street urchin jacket and scarf that they're worn with.

I'm always jealous when I hear about the wonderful vintage "finds" that people have as I am currently living in a city with possibly the worst access to vintage clothing in the history of mankind. Okay, so I exagerate...but the pickings are slim. So I was especially pleased to come across Vagabond NYC; which is owned by a former assistant of Camilla Nickerson and has an eBay store...I am living in a wasteland no longer.

My favorite items from the current selection include a waxed straw Krizia trilby from the 80's, an Hermes orange lambskin sweatshirt from the 70's, and a Courreges trench coat from the early 70's. Search for your selections as a Trust-Fund Vagabond or a Spend-Thrift Vagabond...three guess which button I clicked on...

I know I've ranted about my short phobia before but I just came across an article on Stylehive that made me choke on my beverage. Next to this image was the following text...

"Shorts, when done right, can cross boundaries into the realm of office-appropriate. Pairing the perfect outfit with this season’s shorts is all about balance. Here then are some summer shorts tips.

Office Tip: Shorter lengths go best with loose blouses and wedges (this will lengthen your legs). Longer shorts look really great with tunics, or for the office, a tailored blazer."

I'm sorry...what? Are acid yellow short-shorts ever a good idea? Okay, maybe 1% of the population could get away with them but is this really something that should be encouraged en masse? And in the land of cubicles and water coolers to boot? Summer madness is one thing but this is insanity.

Sorry, that was a terrible pun to start a Monday with. It must be due to my excitement that moiré (the watermarked material that's made by pressing engraved rollers on fabric) is making a comeback this Fall. Even though it's a tad old-fashioned I've always had a soft spot for it...mainly due to my grandmother or, to be more specific, her housecoat. During the forties and fifties, grandmother had all of her clothes handmade...from suits down to underwear. And one of the few pieces from this halcyon period that I was able to get my hands on was her purple and white striped silk moiré housecoat.

Katy Rodriguez

Floor-length, mandarin collared, with large buttons down the front and an elasticated ruffle at the back of the waist. It's more debutante than hausfrau and certainly the only times I've worn it have been to parties. But, sadly, time is taking its toll...maybe this is the year for a little retro fabric to make its way into my closet.

Jenni Kayne	Brian Reyes

It's a little early but I've reached the point where I've had enough of the heat and am longing for Fall...and all of its associated clothing options. It's been creeping up on me for the last couple of days but my feelings were exacerbated when I saw Peter Lindbergh's photographs of Carmen Kass in the new issues of Harper's Bazaar. I want the volume...the feeling of being cocooned...the tights!

Balenciaga	Lanvin
Yves Saint Laurent	Emanuel Ungaro

The one sour note to all this were the prices...almost $26,000 for the Balenciaga dress...$6,000 for the Yves Saint Laurent coat...$3,000 for the Lanvin dress...

It was the same throughout the rest of the magazine, either "price upon request" or, what seemed like, severely inflated pricing. I know this isn't a new occurrence, I just got bludgeoned with it in this issue. Fashion always had its mountain tops but, somehow, they were something that seemed attainable...now there are peaks that can only be reached by the very rich or the celebrities who get the pieces for free. Maybe that's the answer...if designers didn't give away so many freebies they might not be forced to elevate the prices for the rest of us...after all, the money has to come from somewhere...but I don't see why I need to pick up the cost of Lindsay Lohan's latest handbag.

I’ve been admiring the Mulberry jacket pictured on the right for a while now...first online, then in the window of one of their stores in London, and, most recently, on sale at Net-a-Porter... To me it evokes workman’s bags and fencers and has an almost Victorian feel but if I wore it I question whether that will be at the forefront of people’s minds or if they’ll wonder what asylum I escaped from... Don’t get me wrong, I try to avoid dressing based upon other people’s perceptions...but, at the same time, I don’t want to be the punch line for a joke...told by many different people, each one thinking they’re unique in their wit.

Generally I think shorts were the invention of the devil but the Face Hunter has managed to capture a rare instance of beauty in shorts...

One of the things I loved about summer as a child was making daisy chains; not just wimpy little chokers either...I'd strip an entire lawn in an afternoon. I'm a little more eco-friendly now so I don't look back on this with much pride but, nevertheless, the term daisy chain induces some happy memories.

Lest you think I'm off on a tangent for no reason...I got a similar happy summertime feeling from looking at Topshop's Chloe-ish Daisy Chain collection. Pretty, and floral, and no actual daisies had to be massacred to make it happen...

This porridge it too hot
This porridge is too cold
This porridge is just right

I was having a Goldilocks crisis this morning. Having finally decided to wear my insane air hostess outfit I discovered that the glittery red shoes I'd envisioned wearing were just a little "off" from the red of the jacket.

Time was ticking as I opened my closet door and quickly realized just how many pairs of black shoes I own...of the remainder there were two possible contenders.

Blue cut-out flats - unfortunately of such a different shade to the skirt that I would have come across as color blind...distance lends enchantment and the two shades were too close for comfort.

Topshop Japanese flag flats - I love these shoes but with this outfit I went from camp to cartoon in one, very small, step.

The clock was running down...so what was the end result? Inevitably I wore the red shoes I'd initially considered. Why does this always happen? Why?

To most people Memorial Day means a 3-day weekend and a lot of time eating food cooked on a barbecue. To me, it meant no internet access but, if I was grill-inclined, I would be all over this dress from Topshop...it's the ultimate picnic dress, as long as you can put up with the oh-so-witty comments about the fact you're wearing the tablecloth.

Back in 2002 (isn't it depressing how long ago that seems?) I lusted after one of the bags created as part of the collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Julie Verhoeven...sadly it wasn't meant to be...though I do still have an occasional daydream about that cute little patchwork snail making its way through its Alice in Wonderland-esque habitat.

So when I heard that Julie Verhoeven had created a capsule collection for Mulberry, which will be available this Fall, I wondered if I was getting a second chance...after all the definition of "skewed English eccentricity and tradition, a surreal English rose" used to describe the collection could equally apply to me (on a good day). Unfortunately, while I like the tote bag and dress, I don't love them...no lightning, just a mild thunderstorm.

I know that summer is upon us and that means we're supposed to revel in the freedom of not having to wear tights. I also know that should make me happy as a clam (well, happy as a clam with legs who no longer has to wear tights) but...I can't help thinking that a lot of outfits just look better, unless your legs are perfectly tanned and toned (and mine are stunningly pale), with hosiery.

It's not that I don't do the whole "bare legged summer thing", I just find myself looking wistfully at the bag containing my tight collection whenever I go into my closet.